Matching the knot to your collar
The knot sits in the space between your collar points, so the shape of your collar decides how big a knot to tie. Aim for a knot that fills that space without pushing the points apart.
Collar by collar
- Point
- The points sit close together and leave a narrow opening, so a small knot fits best. Tie a Four‑in‑Hand
- Button-down
- The buttons hold the points down against your shirt, which leaves little room for the knot. A small Four‑in‑Hand is the one to tie, and a striped tie suits the collar's slightly sporty look
- Spread
- The points open wider and leave room for a fuller knot. A Half Windsor fills it well, and a Four‑in‑Hand works if you prefer something slimmer
- Cutaway
- The points are swept back towards your lapels, which leaves the most space of any collar. A big Full Windsor has room here, though a smaller knot looks good too
Not sure which collar you have?
Let the mirror tell you once the tie is on. If the knot pushes the collar points apart or lifts them off your shirt, the knot is too big for that collar, and a smaller one will sit more neatly. If you can see a clear gap between the knot and the points, the collar has more room than the knot fills, so try a bigger one.
The tie matters too
The same knot comes out bigger in a thick tie than in a thin one. Wool and knitted ties are much bulkier than thin silk, so with a thick tie, go one knot smaller than you would usually tie for that collar.